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Ask a Knitter - September 14, 2021

Ask a Knitter - September 14, 2021

_tangerine92

Hello sweet knitters! I knit my sock ruffle upside down. It didn't even occur to me that there might be a right/wrong side for a proper ruffle. Please don't judge... I am knitting these [Wool and the Gang socks](https://www.woolandthegang.com/en/products/funkytown-socks-kit?taxon_id=1564). I will never buy from them again I promise. Anyway, my ruffle is the opposite of what's shown in those pictures. I am scared to take my needles out and have chaos ensure. Any thoughts on what the upside down ruffle might look like? I am seriously considering ripping the ruffle out and starting it over. Thank you so much.


half2happy

Put in a [lifeline](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ae7pobnLKGQ) before you take them off the needles and then you can invert to your liking. Otherwise, the difference would be the V side up or the bar side up, as long as you're consistent with both socks nobody will know. Also, you can buy from wherever you like, don't let people shame you.


_tangerine92

Wow, I never had heard of a lifeline before! Thank you so much for the tip and the encouragement about not shaming myself, your point is well taken :)


half2happy

Lifelines can be really helpful especially before you try something new for the first time or are doing lace or colorwork. Use a contrast color or dental floss, something you won't accidentally knit through. I think people dislike WATG because of the markup but if it gets you knitting and on reddit talking about yarn, that's what counts to me. <3


Gold_Candle

I was working on a pattern and realized my yarn was in the purl position instead of knit position. The stitches on the needle had a knot instead of being flat. I went through with my pattern but now there is an annoying bump. I'm not going to redo it, because it's a series of knits and purls and I'm not very good at putting the stitches back on the right position (unless it's all knits). My question is: if I see that I messed up when I see that they are in the wrong position again, is there an easy way to fix that stitch without redoing the previous row? Thanks! Apologies for possibly wrong words used above.


deviknits

You can drop down the column and hook it back up again! It will be a bit finicky to do that if you have a whole row of purls instead of knits, but if you only have a couple of purl bumps where you should have knits, it should work just fine. You could even still fix it if you haven't gotten too far! There are lots of videos on this, here's one that could help: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dQVFQk0qKCo](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dQVFQk0qKCo) I recommend using a crochet hook but you don't need one necessarily. I do think it's worth learning how to put stitches back on the needle. If, for example, you accidentally purled a whole row instead of knitting it, it would be easier to rip it back instead of dropping & fixing every stitch. Or if your stitches accidentally come off your needles, it will be good to know how to get them back on! It shouldn't matter if the stitches are knits or purls, you would put them back on the needle the same way. You just need to make sure that the 'legs' of the stitches are oriented correctly for the style of knitting you do. For me, this means making sure the right leg of the stitch is in front, but it could be different for you. Have a look here: [https://tashamillergriffith.com/2018/11/18/building-blocks-of-knitting-stitches/](https://tashamillergriffith.com/2018/11/18/building-blocks-of-knitting-stitches/) Otherwise you could try putting in an afterthought lifeline before ripping back. Then you wouldn't have to worry about putting the stitches back on the needles at all. This video will show you how! [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ae7pobnLKGQ](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ae7pobnLKGQ) Good luck :)


Gold_Candle

Yay, it worked and I fixed it! There were 4 of them and thet were 3 rows down. Thank you!!


deviknits

Yay I'm so glad! Good job!


Gold_Candle

Thank you so much!!! I'm going to pick up a crochet needle and give it a whirl. I also understand the concept of the right "leg" now and love the idea of the lifeline. This is so great, thank you again!


Kmfr77

Not sure if I should make a whole post but here goes. I’m under moth attack. I’m working on a project that requires 26 rows of color work. However the 2 balls I need for this very small section were attacked by moths. I now have shortish pieces of yarn that I don’t really want to spit splice together. Can I get away with just joining these or do need to buy new yarn. I’m ok with weaving in a million ends. I will also state for the record that I hate clothing moths more than anything and I wish to hear their tiny screams as they are all slowly tortured to death. I have been dealing with moths for years and mostly manage them well. I have a giant freezer I rotate my yarn/fo’s through as a preventive(it disrupts their life cycle). During covid I started using it for food as shopping was tough at the beginning. I cannot calculate how much money, time, effort and vinegar I’ve spent on combatting these insidious evil tiny monsters. I’m so pissed that they still got me. ETA. This is my first attempt at color work and I’m still trying to figure it out.


Pear-thyme

I keep my yarn in plastic bins that snap shut to keep them outand put cedar sachets, cubes, etc in with anything woolen and this has worked well over the years. (I do the freezer thing with grains and bulk foods for pantry moths!) To your current problem of holey yarn- maybe you can snip clean where they chewed and just do your idea of weaving it in. Or you can untwist and re-spin it a bit, but you said you didn't want to do that. Good ole napthalene (moth balls) may be in order. I know it doesn't smell great but you can wash your garment or yarn before using it.


Kmfr77

I probably appear to be insane to non-knitterly folks, but, for the things that aren’t in the freezer. It’s in a ziploc, with cedar in a plastic tote that snaps shut. I tried moth balls but the smell was intense and never came out. I have multiple traps in every closet or room with woolens. It’s ….a lot. I live in a rented apt in a nearly 100 year old building so I think they just exist here and relentlessly await any opportunity. Thank you for your answer! Do you think color work would look weird with a lot of joins and weaved in ends? Maybe I could thin things out by un plying the ends and weaving that in? I’ll try some experiments.


Pear-thyme

Also, I've had hand-spun yarn that broke when knitting and that's what I did, unplied it and re-twisted it together and it worked! But, that was a worsted weight corriedale so it had some play.


Pear-thyme

Lol, I feel you on that. And yea that sounds rough! I love old apartment buildings but they definitely tend to have insect challenges. As for would it look weird? I think that depends on what kind of color work and where you are changing yarn. If you are carrying your yarn you can wave it on the wrong side of the work. I bet you can pull it off strategically so one would be the wiser. I hope to see the final project!


Emmdawg06

How can I learn how to design projects? I always see these gorgeous blankets with these amazing textures and colors and all my projects are just so bland. Is there a method to designing these beautiful patterns, choosing good colors, and pretty stitches?


Pear-thyme

I think "Up, Down, All-Around Stitch Dictionary : More Than 150 Stitch Patterns Knitting" by Wendy Berndard is a really great resource. It's a collection of different knitting patterns with instruction for flat or in-the-round, the number of stitches minimum for one repeat of a motif, and are presented in both written and chart form. Also it has tips on how to design and put them together into a cohesive piece. Whenever I don't have a project going but need to knit, I just make squares from this book to try out different patterns and see what I like.


Emmdawg06

Thank you, I'll definitely check it out!


Educational-Buddy-74

How do you learn color work?


Griffen07

You jump in. I started with mosaic color work in a blanket.


thenerdiestmenno

This [hat](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/quick-ombre-hat) makes a good first project!


RavBot

##### ###### #### **PATTERN:** [Quick Ombré Hat](http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/quick-ombre-hat) by [Emily Dormier](http://www.ravelry.com/designers/emily-dormier) * Category: Accessories > Hat > Beanie, Toque * Photo(s): [Img 1](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/MooMooCow/307339237/ombre_hats_medium.jpg) [Img 2](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/MooMooCow/315309885/image_medium.jpg) [Img 3](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/MooMooCow/307339248/ombre_hats_half_medium.jpg) * Price: Free * Needle/Hook(s):US 8 - 5.0 mm * Weight: Worsted | Gauge: 20.0 | Yardage: 50 * Difficulty: 2.24 | Projects: 3821 | Rating: 4.69 ***** [Im seeking feedback on new features!](https://www.reddit.com/r/knitting/comments/9q0y2v/meta_seeking_feedback_on_potential_new_features/) | *I found this post by myself! [Opt-Out](https://goo.gl/forms/0B8m4Ra8czpw4gzw1) | [About Me](https://github.com/TN-1/LinkRav_Bot/wiki) | [Contact Maintainer](https://www.reddit.com/message/compose/?to=randomstonerfromaus)*


theroguewhocoaxedyou

Yep just try it. My first colorwork project was a hat and it was a nice way to dip my toes into it.


treatyrself

You just need to give it a try! I’d say start with stranded. It’s weirdly easy… you literally just change which yarn you’re knitting with. Try a simple pattern to start and give it a try!


AcrobaticAd6770

What type of needles would be best for knitting a capelet other than any round needle. Please help me.


theroguewhocoaxedyou

Besides circular needles...it's all up to you and your preferences.


e-sportsanime

Is there a "good" way to do [this colorwork?](https://i.imgur.com/gkqbKim.jpg) This is the rough draft for something I'm trying to design, definitely some small things in the chart I want to adjust but I just don't think it's a good fit for intarsia or stranded.... This sample was stranded, worked flat, with the rectangle around the design crocheted/sewn on afterwards. I did not carry the pink yarn across the entire piece, just where the design itself is. The whole time I was unsure of how to trap my yarn in appropriate places around the design so the pink color would be sitting properly for it's first stitch on the next row, or so that sections with a vertical line (ie. the solid pink rectangle) would hold together properly. Is complicated intarsia with strands for individual stitches my only viable option??


98yellow123

I'd intarsia the big spots of pink, with white duplicate stitches for the details, and pink duplicate stitch the rest.


e-sportsanime

Very smart solution! Thank you so much


Miniaturowa

I have a question about patterns and yards of yarn used. I have about 1500 yards (25 skeins) of BOSTON SCHACHENMAYR yarn. I was planning to make a [Boulevard blanket](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/the-boulevard-blanket) but after rethinking [Braided cable throw](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/braided-cable-throw-blanket) would look better with my sofa. The problem is that the second pattern lists 3000 yards or 8-9 skeins. Do cables really take that much more yarn? I'm very new to knitting but today I finished [Cable Pillow](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/cable-pillow-4) I plan to use the same yarn and the same needles for the blanket. I used a bit less than 220 yards listed in the pattern. Do I really need 3000 yards of yarn for the Braided cable throw?


eliisabetjohvi

Braided cable throw uses aran weight yarn held double. If you use one strand of thicker yarn as your Boston Schachenmayr, you'll need ~1500 yards so you should have enough.


Miniaturowa

Thank you, I missed the pary that the yarn is held double. It makes sense now.


RavBot

##### ###### #### **PATTERN:** [The Boulevard Blanket](http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/the-boulevard-blanket) by [Fifty Four Ten Studio](http://www.ravelry.com/designers/fifty-four-ten-studio) * Category: Home > Blanket > Throw * Photo(s): [Img 1](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/5410Studio/449769495/Boulevard_Blanket_Blue_3_medium.JPG) [Img 2](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/5410Studio/686191018/IMG_0469_medium.JPG) [Img 3](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/5410Studio/449764388/Boulevard_Blanket_Blue_2_medium.JPG) [Img 4](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/5410Studio/449764390/IMG_6166_medium.JPG) [Img 5](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/moomercows/551018197/333DC587-3BEF-45A4-B711-748EDBDACD1D_medium.jpeg) * Price: Free * Needle/Hook(s):US 13 - 9.0 mm * Weight: Super Bulky | Gauge: 8.5 | Yardage: 320 * Difficulty: 1.59 | Projects: 592 | Rating: 4.62 ***** **PATTERN:** [Braided Cable Throw Blanket](http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/braided-cable-throw-blanket) by [Gena Shaffer](http://www.ravelry.com/designers/gena-shaffer) * Category: Home > Blanket > Throw * Photo(s): [Img 1](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/shortgamma/459003964/IMG_1944_medium.jpg) [Img 2](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/shortgamma/459003958/IMG_1809_medium.jpg) [Img 3](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/shortgamma/459003965/IMG_1942_medium.jpg) [Img 4](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/shortgamma/459003957/IMG_1945_medium.jpg) * Price: Free * Needle/Hook(s):US 13 - 9.0 mm * Weight: Aran | Gauge: None | Yardage: 2500 * Difficulty: 2.00 | Projects: 34 | Rating: 4.62 ***** **PATTERN:** [Cable Pillow](http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/cable-pillow-4) by [Madeline Nancy](http://www.ravelry.com/designers/madeline-nancy) * Category: Home > Pillow * Photo(s): [Img 1](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/KnittingHouseSq/660940523/Ravelry_medium.png) * Price: Free * Needle/Hook(s):US 13 - 9.0 mm * Weight: Super Bulky | Gauge: 10.0 | Yardage: 210 * Difficulty: 0.00 | Projects: 3 | Rating: 0.00 ***** [Im seeking feedback on new features!](https://www.reddit.com/r/knitting/comments/9q0y2v/meta_seeking_feedback_on_potential_new_features/) | *I found this post by myself! [Opt-Out](https://goo.gl/forms/0B8m4Ra8czpw4gzw1) | [About Me](https://github.com/TN-1/LinkRav_Bot/wiki) | [Contact Maintainer](https://www.reddit.com/message/compose/?to=randomstonerfromaus)*


aethereon0

Can someone tell me the name of the knitting pattern used for the ribs on the end of these arm cuffs, as well as the smooth ribs in the middle? https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/81rNwLdiOOL.jpg


trillion4242

the cuffs looks like 2x2 ribbing. the raised sections might be double knit?


aethereon0

Thank you


knkgu

I have finally cast on my stitches. I have to do a k1 p1 now on this cast. The problem is that my tail end is on the front side and the main yarn is on the backside. So now when I start with the knit stitch the main yarn isn't wrapping around on the needle. each time I try to bring the stitch on the right needle, it's slipping off. I don't know what's wrong. Can someone tell me what's wrong and how to fix it


trillion4242

can you link a picture?


knkgu

let me try creating one


98yellow123

How did you cast on the stitches? You need working yarn to cast on stitches- mainly for this reason, so you can continue to use to working yarn to knit. Did you just cast on with a long tail of yarn? Or are you on circular needles maybe and just didn't flip your work to the other side? Edit: by "working yarn" I mean "yarn attached to the ball of yarn"


knkgu

I'm using 2 single point needles. I did the long-tail method. So now I have, after casting all my stitches some tail yarn and the main yarn. the Tail yarn is in the front when I move my needle to my left hand to begin knitting


98yellow123

Just leave the tail yarn alone, work with the other yarn. As far as the stitches slipping, that sounds like more of an issue with needing practice... just feeling more comfortable with the needles and yarn and stitches. I mean they're supposed to come off the needles- only, ideally after you've made your new stitch lol so that sounds like it'll get better with practice. But the tail, that doesn't matter. If you're knitting all your stitches, you'll have the working yarn in back, too, that's where you want it. Unless you're purling, in which case you'd just move it forward. I thought you had the working yarn on like the far right of your right needle lol!


knkgu

Thanks a ton!! I finally got toh the 4th row now 😊


98yellow123

Awesome!!


raeserpent_13

I just got some very thin yarn, I think sock weight? From a thrift store and don't know what to make. I'm 90 percent sure I don't have enough for a pair of socks and I'm not even sure I have enough for one. Help?


Griffen07

Do you have a kitchen scale? If you know how many grams of yarn you have you can estimate the length.


treatyrself

Try weighing it first, then youll have a better idea of how much you have!


raeserpent_13

Got it thanks. It's in the freezer right now but I'll weigh it tomorrow


MajesticMirror1165

Hello! I just finished a project and now I am joining all the pieces but I have an issue. The problem is that I casted off my sleeves and I thought it was quite loose but they ended up being very tight. I joined all the pieced together thinking it would be still ok but I can’t fit my arm in the sleeve. Is there anyone who can tell me whether I can still save my work? Is there any way I can loosen the sleeve?


Griffen07

Undo your cast off for the sleeves. Put it on waste yarn and see if it fits. If it does then redo the cast off in a larger needle if not rip out the sleeve and try again.


knkgu

My pattern says CO 116 sts. How should I choose the right Cast on method? This is for a sweater. Another question is if it says K1 P1 does it mean that I only Knit 1 and Purl 1 or do I need to choose a type stitch like reverse stockinette or garter? What I'm confused about it is that these stitches, with all these names (stockinette/rib/garter, etc), are they essentially just different permutations and combination of the fundamental Knit and Purl stitch? Super newbie can really use some guidance here


Griffen_07

All knitting is just combinations of knits and purls. Even the most complicated colorwork, lace or cabled item is just a combination of knits and purls. If you are casting on for a sweater do whichever one you like, just keep it loose. I would put a marker every 20 or so stitches to make the counting easier. If the pattern says knit 1 purl 1 that is what you do. Stockinette - 1 row knit then 1 row purl it creates a flat fabric that is prone to rolling but don't stretch out that much. Garter - all knits it is squishy but tends to stretch vertical. Ribbing - knits and purls stacked vertically that has a lot of horizontal stretch and pulls in. It is great for cuffs and the ends of sweaters. It is made by repeating patterns of knits and purls.


treatyrself

Just a note, those are only accurate for flat knitting. If you’re knitting in the round, stockinette is all knits and garter is alternating knits and purls.


knkgu

Thanks a ton for answering this... It is super helpful!


changetje

I want to knit a cardigan, but the pattern states that I need 400 grams of one type of yarn with 140 meters per skein. Why does the weight of yarn matter? Why not specify how many meters? Can someone please explain this to me? I want to buy yarn for this project, but do I buy the amount of grams or meters?


98yellow123

Well just imagine sock yarn versus bulky yarn. If the pattern only said meters and I bought sock yarn, when the pattern used bulky- well, I'd get a fishnet sweater lol But you know, sometimes a pattern uses a "worsted" yarn and you buy a "worsted" yarn and they're closer to the same size than my above example.... but it can still be different enough to mess up your gauge or get you a too-dense fabric. In short, you'll want enough meters, but grams can help a bit to find a good substitute. (Not always though, since you can have a heavy cotton that is 100m for Xg, and 100m of a similarly thick wool with a big fluffy twist which is X/2g..... so... Anyway knowing g & m helps but isn't a guarantee lol)


thenerdiestmenno

You should buy the number of meters, but you should also make sure that the yarn you buy has a similar grams/meters ratio.


changetje

Ah that makes sense! Thanks :) Just really don't get why patterns don't specify meters, it's so much handier than having to do all that math...


Griffen_07

You will find that a lot of brands stabilize on so many meters per 100 grams. Worsted tends to be about 200 meters per 100 grams. Fingering is about 400 meters. However, some brands run thicker and some thinner. Some knitters knit looser or tighter and it all changes the amount of yarn you need,


Bigtimeknitter

What method do you guys use to knit hats? Circular, DPNs, or Magic Loop? I wanna knit a Harlow hat but I'm intimidated by doing magic loop AND brioche, and I hate DPNs. Thx!


wugs

I have interchangeable circulars, so for a while I preferred to have a cord that matched the hat size. But this month I've been knitting my first ever pair of socks, and since my interchangeable set doesn't go down that small, I picked up a US 1.5, 40" cord circular for the project -- and I've been doing these socks magic loop on that. It's surprisingly easy. The only problem is it's more frustrating to cast on. But I feel like it gets more intuitive the more you do it, and after a few rounds the whole thing makes a LOT more sense. I really enjoy magic loop for socks because I don't even need round markers, I just pull loops of cord between stitches at the right counts. I haven't done a hat magic loop yet, but I think that's gonna be my next project. I remember the last time I did cabling on a hat my decreases got wayyy too tight and it was hard to knit on short-cord circulars. Magic loop makes that way easier to manage.


Bigtimeknitter

I do ML for sleeves and 9 inch circs for socks because i literally dont enjoy ML that much !!! This is helpful info & ty\~\~


thenerdiestmenno

I use a 16 inch circular for most of it, but then you have to do something else once it gets small at the top. By that point though, you'll be comfortable with brioche!


treatyrself

This is kind of a silly question but it’s nagging at me. I’m making a sweater right now and the main color is a light gray. I’m getting in my head over it because it’s a SOLID gray, not heathered - which you don’t see as often… and now I’m thinking it’s because it looks weird. What do y’all think? Here it is: https://imgur.com/gallery/UDTUkN2


spotjenlight

Oh wow! It looks amazing, and I wouldn’t change a thing!


treatyrself

Thank you! :)


98yellow123

Because solids are underrated. Heathers are nice, but not better! I think the solid is helping the colorwork really pop- looks great!


treatyrself

Thanks!!!


sneakykingamber

Totally doesn't look weird.


DramaticNet2738

My niece has expressed interest in PetiteKnit’s September Sweater - the mohair brings the cost of yarn way over budget. Has anyone made it without mohair? Maybe just a size up?


Bigtimeknitter

I bought my mohair from ICE yarns. It's actually really nice because I'm also a baller on a budget. Something to consider!


Philodendronfanatic

Mohair is indeed pricy. To get a better idea of what it will look like, you can check out the September Sweater projects on ravelry (you need to be logged in to see these). If you sort them by something like yardage under 1500 you should get results for projects made without the additional strand of mohair. If you're very lucky then some of the projects will include helpful notes as to needle size and gauge etc.


DramaticNet2738

Thank you! I have Ravelry and did have a look but got overwhelmed - never though about filtering on yardage!


Philodendronfanatic

Yeah, without filters it can get overwhelming fast!


SnooHabits7596

Great answer! I never think to look there! Such a good idea!


llamaloser

Hi all! I've only just started knitting and would love to knit a beanie with some super bulky weight I have, but the only suitable circular needles I have are 24'' (60cm) circulars, not 16'' (40cm). Can I still make a beanie, or do I require 16'' (40cm) circulars? Can I use the magic loop method? Thanks!


SnooHabits7596

I would use the traveling loop or DPNs if you have them. A 24” won’t be long enough for the magic loop. Here is a link for the traveling loop, it’s actually a lot easier than DPNs in my opinion! Hope this helps. https://youtu.be/0Ec0B7iu_RU


llamaloser

Ooooh thank you so much! I will definitely check it out, really appreciate your advice :-)


m0oseyfate

If your hat is oversized you might be able to stretch it around 24" needles. If it's a close fitting beanie it'll be too small for the circumference. Your 24" circulars won't be long enough for magic loop, but you might be able to do traveling loop. I don't have a good link handy, but I'm sure you can find a YouTube video. I'd rather not use traveling loop if I have a choice, but that's probably your only option with the length you have.


can_i_knit_it

Pattern help please :) These are the instructions for increasing: "Seed st until 1 st before m, M1r, Sm, K2, M1l" I'm confused if I stop 1 stitch before the marker, then make 1 right, then I'll have a stitch to work prior to getting to the marker... but it says to slip the marker (I'm assuming that's what Sm means) after M1r, does that mean to move the marker to right after the M1r? For context: https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/pearlneck---perlehals


Bigtimeknitter

Always follow these very literally. So you're right! This means: knit right up to the marker, M1R, then slip the marker.


98yellow123

Nah, I'd just knit right up to the marker then M1. Especially since it's also in another language, unless you're reading it on Norwegian and it says the same thing. But I usually assume the translation is "one stitch remaining before marker" might have been better interpreted as "last stitch before marker" or whatever. I'd not move the marker.


can_i_knit_it

Thank you! That would make more sense. I wasn't sure if it was a translation issue or just me not understanding what was happening haha. I'm still fairly new to knitting and reading patterns so I wanted to make sure :)


RavBot

##### ###### #### **PATTERN:** [Pearlneck / Perlehals](http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/pearlneck---perlehals) by [Rille Rundt](http://www.ravelry.com/designers/rille-rundt) * Category: Accessories > Neck / Torso > Cowl * Photo(s): [Img 1](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/Rillerundt/550610550/43165846_289282651687282_9000272507579662336_n_medium.jpg) [Img 2](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/Rillerundt/549409048/42723076_492954787855217_6152773043610451968_n_medium.jpg) * Price: Free * Needle/Hook(s):US 6 - 4.0 mm * Weight: DK | Gauge: 22.0 | Yardage: 98 * Difficulty: 2.25 | Projects: 22 | Rating: 3.80 ***** [Im seeking feedback on new features!](https://www.reddit.com/r/knitting/comments/9q0y2v/meta_seeking_feedback_on_potential_new_features/) | *I found this post by myself! [Opt-Out](https://goo.gl/forms/0B8m4Ra8czpw4gzw1) | [About Me](https://github.com/TN-1/LinkRav_Bot/wiki) | [Contact Maintainer](https://www.reddit.com/message/compose/?to=randomstonerfromaus)*


chocolatewine

I’m making a cowl. The pattern states: yo, knit 3, slip yo over 3 stitches, knit 3. I can’t find anything online to help with slip yo over 3 stitches. What does this mean to do? Slip 3 knit wise? 3 yo? yo then slip three? I’m super confused. TIA.


SnooHabits7596

https://youtu.be/CAdk3yzkUKY This is the exact same thing, except the video only has two stitches where your pattern has three. Hope this helps!


chocolatewine

That was super helpful! I wasn’t doing that at all and I know it didn’t look right. Thanks so much!!


SnooHabits7596

Absolutely! Glad I could help!


98yellow123

Yarn over, knit three stitches, take that yarn over that you just made (now on your righthand needle) and pull it over the 3 knit stitches on your right hand needle, drop the yarn over. Then knit three stitches. That's how I interpret it. Similar to a "psso" if you want to look up passing slipped stitches over, only in your case you're passing a yarn over over.


thenerdiestmenno

My guess is that it means to pull the first yo you made over the three stitches you just knit, so it will kind of loop around them.


Spare_School_2413

Hi! I've knitted for years but just now starting out on circulars. Finally got casted on and it was going pretty well (okay I thought it was going well), turns out I need some beginner tips on decreasing stitches and casting off on circular needles. If it helps, I was trying to make a beanie with worsted acrylic yarn on US9, 16 inch needles.


Philodendronfanatic

When it gets tight at the top I split the stitches into 3 sections (a few stitches on the right needle, about half of the stitches on the cable and the rest on the left needle) and pull the cable through between these sections so that I can manouvre the needles to knit. I find this easier than magic loop and so long as you keep the tension quite tight you shouldn't have any laddering.


trillion4242

If you don't have DPNs, you can also use two circulars or magic or traveling loop with long circulars as it gets too small for 16 inch circs - https://www.tikkiknits.com/blog/small-circumference-knitting


Spare_School_2413

thanks for that link! Lots of great info there and pictures were helpful. I do have a pair of circular needles with a longer cable but I guess I read a wrong website that suggested mostly 16" needles for hats so that's what I went with. I may have to try out either loop and see what I can manage.


98yellow123

You can't really stretch the stitches around 16" circs, down to the last few stitches. Idk if magic loop works with 16" circs, seems like not enough cable, but maybe someone who uses that technique can chime in... I just use DPNs. Alternatively on some style hats (especially with a pompom) you can just cut your yarn once you've decreased to the point there are no longer enough stitches to work on the needle, thread the yarn through the stitches and pull it tight. It's lumpy when you skip the last few decrease rounds, so that's what the pompom is for lol just work a few extra rounds so it's long enough still, if you try this.


Spare_School_2413

Thank you so much for taking the time to answer. I've never tried DPNs, my entire time knitting I only made scarves because I only knew how to knit in a line lol Finally about two years ago a crochet stitching friend showed me to knit rectangle-like then sew the sides together to get tube shape then stitch at either end and draw the string together to kind of close it off. Sounds kind of like what you were talking about at the end. I had wondered if that would work. Guess even though it was my first hat on circular needles I should have listened to my gut.


CKnit

Hi I’m in the process of knitting a sock/socks and on 9” circular needles. I’m using a yarn that was given to me. Also this my very first time knitting socks. The yarn is Knit Picks Essential and it splits terribly. Long story short, I’d like a better yarn to do a better pair next time. I’d love recommendations please. Fingering weight, and no splitting would be priority.


Bigtimeknitter

Indie dyer : Junk Yarns I LOVE her smooth sock base! No splitting! After knitting with cheap yarn for years, this was like WHOA. For solids??? Cascade all the way. The price point is great and the twist is good on their sock. Like you, I decided if I hate a yarn it's not worth working with


CKnit

Junk yarns: colors look gorgeous. Thanks!


sneakykingamber

I like Cascade's basic sock yarns: sturdy and come in lots of cool colors. A little lighter than Kroy (which is also a great suggestion). Wool, particularly really "wooly" wools, tends to split less b/c it's grippy to itself, I think. So you could avoid superwash if you really want to get the least splitty yarns.


CKnit

I appreciate your information. Cascade yarns do have a good reputation. Thanks!


JustJaq04

You can't go wrong with Patons Kroy sock yarn. It's readily available and not super expensive.


CKnit

Thank you for responding. Looks like a good choice.


knkgu

what does "across row" mean in this- "Row 1: \*K1, p1, rep from \* across row"?? Really new at this. Need some help with this stupid questions


trillion4242

There are no stupid questions :) It means to continue K1, P1 to the end of the row.


knkgu

Ohhhhkayyy.... got it! Thanks a lot!! I'll keep asking more. :)


canopy_views

I've been knitting for a couple of years, but just finishing up my first proper clothing item. Should I block the pieces before I sew together, or the whole cardigan after?


trigly

Defintely block first. Makes seaming easier. Plus it's a lot easier to block flat in pieces; a single-layer of fabric will dry faster and won't end up with any fold lines. (You can re-block after seaming if you reeeeallly want.)


98yellow123

I pin the pieces first, makes it easier to seam. What fiber are you using? Any lace or cables or anything?


canopy_views

It's 100% wool. Basic pattern other than the sleeves https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/graphite-berry-cardigan


RavBot

##### ###### #### **PATTERN:** [Graphite Berry Cardigan](http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/graphite-berry-cardigan) by [Laimute Vaiciuliene](http://www.ravelry.com/designers/laimute-vaiciuliene) * Category: Clothing > Coat / Jacket * Photo(s): [Img 1](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/Laimuska/719549878/IMG_3631_medium.JPG) [Img 2](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/Laimuska/597645703/20180614_120513_medium.jpg) [Img 3](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/Laimuska/661069720/20190706_1609001_medium.jpg) [Img 4](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/Laimuska/508554462/40_medium.jpg) [Img 5](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/Laimuska/661069885/20190706_160900__2__medium.jpg) * Price: 5.0 EUR * Needle/Hook(s):US 11 - 8.0 mm, US 15 - 10.0 mm * Weight: Super Bulky | Gauge: 8.0 | Yardage: 920 * Difficulty: 3.40 | Projects: 21 | Rating: 4.27 ***** [Im seeking feedback on new features!](https://www.reddit.com/r/knitting/comments/9q0y2v/meta_seeking_feedback_on_potential_new_features/) | *I found this post by myself! [Opt-Out](https://goo.gl/forms/0B8m4Ra8czpw4gzw1) | [About Me](https://github.com/TN-1/LinkRav_Bot/wiki) | [Contact Maintainer](https://www.reddit.com/message/compose/?to=randomstonerfromaus)*


98yellow123

Ooh that's a cute pattern. Yeah, I'd spray it and pin it, sew it up, do a full soak/wash after it's seamed.


051917

I’d like to knit bulky hats as gifts, any brand recommendations for size 11 dpns ( or a pattern on circulars only)? I’m going to visit some lys but I suspect this is an order online since it’s a large size needle


SnooHabits7596

Knitpicks.com has really nice DPNs and circulars! And if you prefer circular needles, any circular pattern can be worked on circulars or DPNs it’s basically a personal preference. You don’t have to find a circular needles only pattern. 😊


Kranesy

I'm looking for advice on yarn types. I'm currently in lockdown in Australia so I can't look at anything in person I need help! I want to make the jump to knitting something wearable as opposed to toys. What's a good brand and yarn type to look for? I'm hoping for soft (non itchy), washable and not so expensive that I cry if I end up failing my first attempt. Edit: Thanks for all the recommendations! I'll start looking at them today.


unusualteapot

Check out Bendigo Woollen Mills. The quality is good and it’s pretty inexpensive.


trigly

I quite like Cascade 220 superwash. It's 100% wool, mid-range price-wise, is reasonably soft, and decently durable. They make a worsted weight and a sport weight. Berroco Vintage is similar; it's 52% acrylic, but of the acrylic blends I've worked with, I like it best. A bit softer than the Cascade too. I don't know what selection is like in Aus, but those are pretty big brands.


treatyrself

Look for superwash merino wool!


----hello

Anyone have a recommendation for a good Cotton merino/wool blend in worsted weight?? Thanks!


sighcantthinkofaname

This is cotton/alpaca so not exactly what you're looking for, but it's very pretty yarn. https://www.yarn.com/products/plymouth-yarn-moon-shadow?gclid=Cj0KCQjw1ouKBhC5ARIsAHXNMI-GN87X3FZfrXEi5x023WJrGEJ-QplRE7Hf7Ae8O3aoyXBbypZWm78aAgJFEALw\_wcB


----hello

Thanks so much for the rec! Def ok with alpaca too.


Lost_in_a_Book

Knitters please help! After trying on both socks one is shorter than the other. If there a way to lengthen it after it's been knitted? It was constructed top down on 9inch circulars.


trillion4242

Is it too short in the foot or leg? You could unpick the toe and tink back to before the toe increases to add length to the foot. For the leg, if there is ribbing, run a lifeline in the first row of stockinette and clip the yarn to remove the ribbing and add some length and re-do the ribbing. It is easier than trying to unpick ribbing from the cast on side.


treatyrself

I’d clip below the ribbing like you said, but add on length below the ribbing then graft the two pieces back together with Kitchener stitch!


Lost_in_a_Book

It was the leg that was short! Ok This make sense! Thank you SO much 💕🥺


FlossFloosy_007

Starting my first "patchwork" blanket and I am curious: How necessary is it to block each individual square? And what is your favourite method for grafting all the pieces together?


trigly

If each patch is a different stitch pattern, I'd probably block each square, using a ruler or piece of paper cut to the right size, just to make sure they all the same size (since different stitches result in different gauges). If it's an option, I like to pick up stitches directly from the previous patch to start the next patch. Minimal seaming! Especially if working patches that are rotated (where the stitch columns of one patch are perpendicular to the columns of the other patch), though this prevents you from blocking one square at a time. Kitchener stitch is best for seaming tops to bottoms in a relatively 'invisible' way, or you can do a three-needle bind-off for a slightly less invisible option (work it with the wrong sides held together for a nice chain effect on the right side!) You can do kitchener/grafting over cast-off stitches too. Mattress stitch is best for sides to sides. If you've got to seam a side to top, a somewhat decorative crocheted seam can look nice, resulting in a nice smooth chain on top.


frogchildsrevenge

I only have experience with this from crocheted blankets. I never blocked the squares until my most recent blanket and I am NEVER going back, it made a world of difference even though it wasn’t strictly necessary. Everything was so much tidier.


ronnie129

seems a bit silly but is there a specific word for designs that are just purls and knits? I see it a lot for dishclothes, where the image is made just from the bumps of the purls on a background of stockinette.


SnooHabits7596

I’ve always referred to them as knit and purl texture stitch patterns or just knit and purl stitch patterns. I’m not sure if you’re trying to search for these patterns and need the specific name for that reason, but if so, just Google knit and purl stitch patterns and a ton will come up! Here is a link with several good ones to get you started 😊 https://www.studioknitsf.com/stitch-patterns-beginner/


eliisabetjohvi

If you only see knits on the right side, it's stockinette. If you only see purl bumps on the right side, it's reverse stockinette. If you see alternating rows of knits and purls, it's garter. If a pattern is created by alternating knits and purls, it's called textured pattern, like a reverse stockinette heart on stockinette background or a basket weave pattern.


Bucephala-albeola

They're just called "knit purl" "knit-purl" or "knit and purl" stitch patterns.


98yellow123

I asked this too, and did not find an answer. Interested if there is- it seems common enough to have its own name!


PM_ME_UR_CC_INFO

I want to make a "dupe" of this Dries Van Noten wavy striped midi skirt. [https://www.pinterest.com/pin/457537643401927666/](https://www.pinterest.com/pin/457537643401927666/) I'm a beginner; I've only done baby blankets in the past. I can knit and purl, but I don't know how to read a pattern. Would one of these patterns work? I assume I would have to make most of these longer. I think I might knit it entirely in blue and add the orange stripes on afterward, which could add a cool 3D texture element... is that possible? [https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/simple-straight-skirt](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/simple-straight-skirt) [https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/about-town-skirt](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/about-town-skirt) [https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/pont-des-arts-skirt](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/pont-des-arts-skirt) [https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/custom-tailored-pencil-skirt](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/custom-tailored-pencil-skirt) [https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/ribbed-pencil-skirt](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/ribbed-pencil-skirt) [https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/perfect-pencil-skirt-knit](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/perfect-pencil-skirt-knit)


trigly

I think your best bet would be to actually work it sideways rather than from top-to-bottom. That way you could work the orange and blue like stripes. Check out [these filters](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/search#craft=knitting&pc=skirt&pa=sideways&sort=best&view=captioned_thumbs). Unless you *really* want the wave aspect. If you *need* the wave, I think adding the orange stripes on afterward is going to be a PAIN IN THE ARSE, assuming you mean doing it with duplicate stitch?. It would be so time-consuming. Honestly just learning stranded knitting would be easier and faster! Then you can do even columns of each colour, and when you get to the wave part, start shifting things in one direction by a stitch or two for a bunch of rounds, then start alternating no-shift with shift rounds to slow down the slope of the wave. That said, stranded knitting will make it bulkier and less light and flowy than a typical skirt. (Part of me wants to recommend using a lighter weight yarn like fingering to keep it from being too heavy, especially to get a smoother-looking wave... but another part of me cries a bit at that much work and leans toward worsted.)


RavBot

##### ###### #### **PATTERN:** [Simple Straight Skirt](http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/simple-straight-skirt) by [Churchmouse Yarns and Teas](http://www.ravelry.com/designers/churchmouse-yarns-and-teas) * Category: Clothing > Skirt * Photo(s): [Img 1](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/churchmouseyarns/76138132/simple_skirt_waistband_medium.jpg) [Img 2](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/churchmouseyarns/76138007/simple-straight-skirt5_medium.jpg) [Img 3](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/churchmouseyarns/76137920/simple-straight-skirt4_medium.jpg) [Img 4](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/churchmouseyarns/76138069/simple-straight-skirt2_medium.jpg) * Price: 8.0 USD * Needle/Hook(s):US 8 - 5.0 mm, US 7 - 4.5 mm * Weight: Aran | Gauge: 18.0 | Yardage: 470 * Difficulty: 2.28 | Projects: 390 | Rating: 4.55 ***** **PATTERN:** [About Town Skirt](http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/about-town-skirt) by [Carolina Gongora](http://www.ravelry.com/designers/carolina-gongora) * Category: Clothing > Skirt * Photo(s): [Img 1](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/WildFireKnits/29580512/modeled_seated_medium.jpg) [Img 2](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/WildFireKnits/42593537/about_town_pic_medium.jpg) [Img 3](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/WildFireKnits/29580747/modeled_standing_medium.jpg) [Img 4](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/WildFireKnits/29580847/full_medium.JPG) [Img 5](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/WildFireKnits/29580933/closeup_seated_medium.jpg) * Price: 1.99 USD * Needle/Hook(s):US 7 - 4.5 mm, US 6 - 4.0 mm * Weight: Worsted | Gauge: 16.0 | Yardage: 660 * Difficulty: 0.00 | Projects: 5 | Rating: 0.00 ***** **PATTERN:** [Pont des Arts Skirt](http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/pont-des-arts-skirt) by [Sarah Wilson](http://www.ravelry.com/designers/sarah-wilson) * Category: Clothing > Skirt * Photo(s): [Img 1](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/TheSexyKnitter/113283380/IMG_0086_medium.JPG) [Img 2](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/TheSexyKnitter/113284068/IMG_0103_medium.JPG) [Img 3](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/TheSexyKnitter/113283878/IMG_0102_medium.JPG) [Img 4](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/TheSexyKnitter/113286376/IMG_0113_medium.JPG) [Img 5](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/TheSexyKnitter/113284417/IMG_0117_medium.JPG) * Price: 6.0 USD * Needle/Hook(s):US 4 - 3.5 mm * Weight: Fingering | Gauge: 24.0 | Yardage: 800 * Difficulty: 2.25 | Projects: 8 | Rating: 5.00 ***** **PATTERN:** [Custom Tailored Pencil Skirt](http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/custom-tailored-pencil-skirt) by [Mouton Rouge](http://www.ravelry.com/designers/mouton-rouge) * Category: Clothing > Skirt * Photo(s): [Img 1](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/moutonrouge/596019785/2f_medium.jpg) [Img 2](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/moutonrouge/596019784/1f_medium.jpg) [Img 3](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/moutonrouge/596019791/11si_medium.jpg) [Img 4](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/moutonrouge/596019789/1b_medium.jpg) [Img 5](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/moutonrouge/596019788/22_medium.jpg) * Price: 6.0 USD * Needle/Hook(s):US 8 - 5.0 mm * Weight: Worsted | Gauge: 5.0 | Yardage: 656 * Difficulty: 0.00 | Projects: 1 | Rating: 0.00 ***** **PATTERN:** [Ribbed Pencil Skirt](http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/ribbed-pencil-skirt) by [Churchmouse Yarns and Teas](http://www.ravelry.com/designers/churchmouse-yarns-and-teas) * Category: Clothing > Skirt * Photo(s): [Img 1](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/churchmouseyarns/76364592/ribbed-pencil-skirt2_medium.jpg) [Img 2](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/churchmouseyarns/76364628/ribbed-pencil-skirt_medium.jpg) [Img 3](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/churchmouseyarns/76364684/ribbed-pencil-skirt3_medium.jpg) [Img 4](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/churchmouseyarns/76364746/ribbed-pencil-skirt4_medium.jpg) * Price: 6.0 USD * Needle/Hook(s):US 4 - 3.5 mm, US 2 - 2.75 mm * Weight: DK | Gauge: 24.0 | Yardage: 460 * Difficulty: 1.93 | Projects: 81 | Rating: 4.29 ***** **PATTERN:** [Perfect Pencil Skirt (Knit)](http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/perfect-pencil-skirt-knit) by [Mari Lynn Patrick](http://www.ravelry.com/designers/mari-lynn-patrick) * Category: Clothing > Skirt * Photo(s): [Img 1](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/cat2/636435410/upload_medium) * Price: Free * Needle/Hook(s):US 6 - 4.0 mm * Weight: Worsted | Gauge: 28.0 | Yardage: None * Difficulty: 0.00 | Projects: 1 | Rating: 0.00 ***** [Im seeking feedback on new features!](https://www.reddit.com/r/knitting/comments/9q0y2v/meta_seeking_feedback_on_potential_new_features/) | *I found this post by myself! 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can_i_knit_it

I'm looking for an alternative to seed stitch. Currently working on a Pearlneck neckwarmer, I've finished the 2x2 ribbing for the neck, but I don't love how the seed stitch looks for the body. Any ideas on what would work without distorting the pattern? https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/pearlneck---perlehals


can_i_knit_it

Ok, now that I'm reading the instructions for the increases I'm confused. 😅 "Seed st until 1 st before m, M1r, Sm, K2, M1l" I'm confused if I stop 1 stitch before the marker, then make 1 right, then I'll have a stitch to work prior to getting to the marker... but it says to slip the marker (I'm assuming that's what Sm means) after M1r, does that mean to move the marker to right after the M1r?


trigly

Hm. You could try double moss stitch or linen stitch. Or check out [this blog post with a bunch of simple knit/purl stitch patterns](https://www.studioknitsf.com/stitch-patterns-beginner/). I like the chevron or diamond ones, the pennant pleating one is pretty cool, or even just a more spread out seed stitch (like the "simple seed stitch" she shows.)


can_i_knit_it

I was thinking of linen stitch, I love the way it looks and how it lies nice and flat as the neckwarmer will be worn with lots of layers. I'm only concerned if it will interfere with the increases or the bind off because of the slip stitches. Thank you for the link as well, lots of options to consider :)


trigly

You could just do a stitch or so in regular stockinette on either side of the increases as a 'buffer'. And then when you get to the parts worked flat, maintain a stitch or two at either edge in stockinette, and work the increased stitches into the pattern on your next row. That should sort out any wonkiness! I think the bind off would be no problem, but you could also just work the row before binding off in plain stockinette for good measure.


can_i_knit_it

Thank you so much. This makes a lot of sense! I'm going to give it a try :)


theroguewhocoaxedyou

I might do stockinette with a seed stitch border so it would lay flat.


can_i_knit_it

I like the look of stockinette for sure. How many rows/stitches of a border would I need to ensure it doesn't roll?


RavBot

##### ###### #### **PATTERN:** [Pearlneck / Perlehals](http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/pearlneck---perlehals) by [Rille Rundt](http://www.ravelry.com/designers/rille-rundt) * Category: Accessories > Neck / Torso > Cowl * Photo(s): [Img 1](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/Rillerundt/550610550/43165846_289282651687282_9000272507579662336_n_medium.jpg) [Img 2](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/Rillerundt/549409048/42723076_492954787855217_6152773043610451968_n_medium.jpg) * Price: Free * Needle/Hook(s):US 6 - 4.0 mm * Weight: DK | Gauge: 22.0 | Yardage: 98 * Difficulty: 2.25 | Projects: 22 | Rating: 3.80 ***** [Im seeking feedback on new features!](https://www.reddit.com/r/knitting/comments/9q0y2v/meta_seeking_feedback_on_potential_new_features/) | *I found this post by myself! [Opt-Out](https://goo.gl/forms/0B8m4Ra8czpw4gzw1) | [About Me](https://github.com/TN-1/LinkRav_Bot/wiki) | [Contact Maintainer](https://www.reddit.com/message/compose/?to=randomstonerfromaus)*


helpanoverthinker

Hi- currently knitting a blanket and wondering how to tell my RS from my WS? Currently all stitches are knit stitches but I’m close to starting on the simple pattern but I am confused with RS and WS.


FlossFloosy_007

I like to put a "clippy marker" on one of the sides.


sighcantthinkofaname

If it's all garter stitch right now it doesn't matter so much. When you start the pattern the right side is the one that you would want facing you. So like in stockinette, the right side is the flat side, the wrong side is the bumpy side. You can also tell if you're on an odd row or an even row based on where the tail is for the cast-on row.


helpanoverthinker

This is helpful. I think what I’m mostly trying to figure out is making sure my pattern shows up on the RS. So when started a new row, if the tail is on the opposite side would that be RS or WS? And when knitting, are my new stitches showing up on the side that is not facing me while I knit? (Sorry if that’s a little word vomit-y)


sighcantthinkofaname

You're good! The right side is whatever row you knit your first patterned row on You can do 10 rows of garter stitch and have the right side start with an odd row, or you can do 11 rows of garter stitch and have the pattern start on an even row. Odd rows have the tail on the right side, assuming you're using long tail cast on or something like it. If you knit a stitch the smooth part of the stich will face you, if you Purl a stitch the bump will fave you.


helpanoverthinker

Thank you!!!


RuthlessBenedict

Does anyone have a chart or something that explains the differences between sock heel types? I’m thinking about fit, amount of stretch, durability. That sort of thing. I usually do the heel flap and gusset but I’ve dabbled in afterthought heels as well


robinlovesrain

[This site](https://www.alpacadirect.com/blogs/alpaca-direct-blog/how-to-choose-your-sock-heel) has a good comparison of some common heel types!


RuthlessBenedict

Thanks!


dreamingofseastars

I have an urge to knit 6 of my friends something for when we all meet up next week. One of them's getting a mug cosy because I've got her a mug for her birthday but I'm not sure if I should do something for the others? Any suggestion on something small and under 3 hours or should I just do the birthday girl's gift?


SnooHabits7596

A chunky beanie or cowl would be cute and quick! Also the twisted turban headbands are super cute and fast. I made both of my daughters one in about 4 hours!


ehuang72

Holiday ornaments!


RuthlessBenedict

I would stick with the one for now. You don’t want to risk overdoing it in a rush to finish in time. I’m also personally a huge fan of giving/receiving surprise gifts so what I would do is still make things for the friends (matching bulky hats or something?) but on your own timetable and then everyone gets a surprise gift in the mail, or maybe a porch drop off if you live near each other.


Quiet-Membership6593

I'm trying to knit a cardigan for my dog and its my first time to try adding those twisty designs and I find it hard to follow the pattern on how to do it. Is there a youtube video perhaps that could show me the exact thing that's asked in the pattern? Here's the part of the pattern Im having trouble with, I couldn't understand what to do after the k2tog part: Small Right Twist (worked over 8 sts) Row 1 (RS): P1, k1, p1, k2tog, leaving sts on left-hand needle; then insert right-hand needle from the front between the 2 sts just knitted together, and knit the first st again; thenslip both sts from needle together, p1, k1, p1. Row 2: K1, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, k1.Rep Rows 1 and 2 for Small Right Twist.


LonelyTangerine

I found this video helpful: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fYbUsr0PQ24&t=6s


Quiet-Membership6593

Omygosh thank you so much 💕


fairychicory

Someone gave me the pattern to make this hat by we are knitters (I know, I know...). I bought the yarn and started the project when I realised the instructions are incomplete. I'd love to make something similar, does anyone have a suggestion for a different pattern I could try? [https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/nordic-flower-hat-2](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/nordic-flower-hat-2)


trigly

Did you try reaching out to the company/designer? They might be able to provide a bit more support, if the pattern is lacking! (They seem to be big on their social media presence, so you might get most traction contacting them in a public way?)


fairychicory

So I didn't get the pattern direct from the company but from someone I know, and they don't seem to have the rest of the instructions. Unfortunately the company don't sell the pattern directly, otherwise I'd be happy to purchase it.


trigly

Ahhh got it. Yeah, it drives me nuts when companies only sell their stuff as kits!


Philodendronfanatic

Honestly, the pattern isn't too complicated so you could try working out a similar design yourself. The leaves are worked using descreases in the purl section right along the outer edge of the leaves and increases at the inner side of the outermost knit stitch of the leaves and then decreses in the knit stitches and increases in the purl section between the leaves. You can strategically use M1L and M1R and k2tog and ssk to shape the increases and decreses, there are youtube videos that show how to do that. Add a few bobble stitches in between and you have the pattern down. You can do a gauge swatch and use the size from a free ravelry pattern if you don't have a head to measure and just adjust the number of stitches between pattern repeats so that they're equal. I'd do the shaping at the top differently, the WAK pattern is decreased in 4 sections which makes the hat very pointy, I'd do it in 6 sections.


fairychicory

Thank you :) I think coming up with my own pattern like that is still a bit above my skill level, but I'll keep it in mind for when I'm more experienced.


RavBot

##### ###### #### **PATTERN:** [Nordic Flower Hat](http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/nordic-flower-hat-2) by [we are knitters](http://www.ravelry.com/designers/we-are-knitters) * Category: Accessories > Hat > Beanie, Toque * Photo(s): [Img 1](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/weareknitters/788638906/knitting-kit-petite-wool-nordic-flower-hat_en-01_medium.jpg) [Img 2](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/weareknitters/788638908/knitting-kit-petite-wool-nordic-flower-hat_en-02_medium.jpg) [Img 3](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/weareknitters/788638910/knitting-kit-petite-wool-nordic-flower-hat_en-03_medium.jpg) * Price: None * Needle/Hook(s):US 11 - 8.0 mm * Weight: Super Bulky | Gauge: None | Yardage: None * Difficulty: 0.00 | Projects: 1 | Rating: 0.00 ***** [Im seeking feedback on new features!](https://www.reddit.com/r/knitting/comments/9q0y2v/meta_seeking_feedback_on_potential_new_features/) | *I found this post by myself! [Opt-Out](https://goo.gl/forms/0B8m4Ra8czpw4gzw1) | [About Me](https://github.com/TN-1/LinkRav_Bot/wiki) | [Contact Maintainer](https://www.reddit.com/message/compose/?to=randomstonerfromaus)*


No_Historian_9675

Is it possible to knit a flat circle without double pointed needles? I want to make a bucket hat like [https://aleksandramccormack.com/products/crochet-bucket-hat-blue](https://aleksandramccormack.com/products/crochet-bucket-hat-blue) with wavy edges, it has a flat circle top, but all i can find when i google "knit bucket hat" is just crochet bucket hats. When I looked up how to knit a circle to at least experiment with the idea, everyone used double pointed needles which I don't have and really don't think I'd enjoy using, also I don't know how to make the wavy edges which i think really make the hat special, as far as i know, only crochet can do that which makes me sad


SnooHabits7596

Here are a TON of cute bucket hat patterns, I’m sure you can find something that will work with what you’ve got! ❤️ https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/search#craft=knitting&query=%20Bucket%20hat&sort=best&view=large_mobile


No_Historian_9675

Thank you! I always forget about ravelry, I really should have used it before asking, but I also can't remember my username nor password for my account so I'll have to recover it.


ehuang72

2 circs or flexi flips


faoltiama

Someone else gave you links to an interesting short row technique so I'll just explain why DPNs are required. Once you get to a small enough circumference in the round, it's really difficult to use one set of circular needles. There's too much cord and not enough stitches. So at some point you need to switch to DPNs because the multiple needles allow for tight "turns" in the circle if you will. Though if you think about it circular needles are just really really really long bendy DPNs, so if you had enough of them you could get the same effect as DPNs, lol. Feels very clunky, but you could do it.


No_Historian_9675

I know dpns are very useful, but everytime I look at a video with them they just feel incredibly intimidating, I think I've even seen videos of people knit with more than just 4 dpns and I can't believe people can do boss level knitting like that.


98yellow123

Short rows- here's a [hat](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/shortrows-sideways-hat) and here's just a circle [washcloth](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/crazy-eights-dishcloth) Wavy edge I'd just do a fancy flat edge and add it as a border, but.... I didn't look very hard for a bucket hat. You can try "hat attributes worked flat and short rows" search on rav though. Edit: make circle washcloth, make flat rectangle, sew that for a hat part to the circle top, make another skinny longer flat rectangle for the brim. That type of wavy edge is just more stitches than there is space, you can do that with knitting, too.


No_Historian_9675

I followed the video on that circle pattern and it was so great, it was the most fun knitting I've had since I started. As far as I can tell it's knitting and leaving one more stitch alone until you reach half the stitches right and then start a new section, right? I'm asking because I want know how to size it to someones head. I did one with 8 stitches, and and then another smaller one with 4. I later picked up stitches on the smaller one to see if I could change color. I love it! Thank you.


RavBot

##### ###### #### **PATTERN:** [Shortrows Sideways Hat](http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/shortrows-sideways-hat) by [Kristi Porter](http://www.ravelry.com/designers/kristi-porter) * Category: Accessories > Hat > Beanie, Toque * Photo(s): [Img 1](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/lindalu/579836352/2413041147_fc3848e989_b_medium.jpg) [Img 2](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/flickr/2/5/3/2532858663/2532858663.jpg) [Img 3](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/Sivani/583042463/2278845912_2e120d646f_b_medium.jpg) * Price: Free * Needle/Hook(s): None * Weight: Worsted | Gauge: 20.0 | Yardage: None * Difficulty: 1.85 | Projects: 445 | Rating: 4.53 ***** **PATTERN:** [crazy eights dishcloth](http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/crazy-eights-dishcloth) by [Julie Tarsha](http://www.ravelry.com/designers/julie-tarsha) * Category: Home > Cleaning > Washcloth / Dishcloth * Photo(s): [Img 1](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/JuleeQue/376879161/image_medium.jpeg) [Img 2](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/JuleeQue/376879403/image_medium.jpeg) * Price: Free * Needle/Hook(s):US 7 - 4.5 mm * Weight: Worsted | Gauge: None | Yardage: 60 * Difficulty: 1.85 | Projects: 602 | Rating: 4.55 ***** [Im seeking feedback on new features!](https://www.reddit.com/r/knitting/comments/9q0y2v/meta_seeking_feedback_on_potential_new_features/) | *I found this post by myself! [Opt-Out](https://goo.gl/forms/0B8m4Ra8czpw4gzw1) | [About Me](https://github.com/TN-1/LinkRav_Bot/wiki) | [Contact Maintainer](https://www.reddit.com/message/compose/?to=randomstonerfromaus)*


mellerstellar98

I'm fairly new to knitting and have only made two baby blankets and many, many dishcloths. My first big project is a cardigan, but after casting on the stitches I realized the cable on my circular needles is not long enough. I need a 36" cable but accidentally bought needles with a 29" cable. I'm going to buy the proper needles tomorrow, but how should I proceed with transferring my project onto the new needles?


faoltiama

You can squish the stitches like someone else said, but at some point you really can overload a needle and need a longer cable. You can also just slip stitches PURLWISE onto the new needle if you need to transfer without working the row.


questdragon47

You don’t need to buy new needles; just squish the stitches on the one you already have. Plus if you bunch them up on your left needle you can easily knit them faster. For future reference though, the easiest way to transfer stitches is to just knit with the new needle. Then the stitches will automatically be in the new needle


drnowzaradan

https://ibb.co/VwtcBPw Any ideas on how to recreate this? Ive been looking for a similar pattern but no luck so far :(


trigly

Hm. Mostly just looks like reverse stockinette worked with a big yarn/roving on too-small needles. A few rounds of ribbing in white, then a few of grey and white stripes, and then maybe some rounds of k1 yellow k1 white interspersed. Work it in regular stockinette then turn it inside out.


T8rthot

Hey! So I’m going to be teaching 5 of my friends to knit this Friday night. Should I teach them continental style or English? I’ve been knitting casually for 15 years and have been trying to get used to continental style for the past two. It’s a very simple scarf, knitted in garter stitch so it’ll be a great learning exercise for me too, if I decide to teach them continental style. What do you think?


ehuang72

Teach them English since it’s what are more comfortable with and encourage them to learn Continental as well if they continue to knit.


faoltiama

I think you should let them choose, lol. Explain both of them and their pros and cons, demonstrate each, and maybe even teach both to whoever is willing to try both out. If they don't care, teach the one you're more comfortable with. I guess that approach could overwhelm someone, but I also feel like it should be an informed decision. I deliberately researched and chose to learn continental before I started to learn, lol.


T8rthot

Yeah, I’d like to let them choose, but we’re a bunch of mom’s who will be watching our 3-5 year olds run around out of the corners of our eyes while I try to teach everyone to knit. I appreciate everyone’s replies to my question!


questdragon47

If they’ve crocheted before, teach them Continental. And if they haven’t id go with English style. Half the struggle in continental knitting is keeping tension with your left hand. Crocheters know how to do it already


Griffen07

Let them figure it out. I find it easier if each hand has a job. The left is tension and the right moves the working needle. It’s why I have trouble with crocheting people keep insisting hook and yarn have to be in the same hand.


robinlovesrain

Oh no, who's insisting that? I don't think I've ever seen anyone hold the hook and yarn in the same hand when crocheting, and I've been crocheting for decade now. Honestly that sounds close to impossible!


RuthlessBenedict

Same here! I literally said “what” out loud when reading. I don’t even know how that would work! I’ve been crocheting for many years as well and I’ve never seen that. Although now I’m really tempted to go dig out my hooks and try.


robinlovesrain

Hahaha, legit if you try let me know how it goes 😂 it's like crochet: challenge mode!


Griffen07

This might have been a case of bad family teaching.


robinlovesrain

Well if you ever try again, you'll definitely have an easier time with the yarn and hooks in opposite hands!


sighcantthinkofaname

If I was teaching someone I'd start with english. I think it's easier to get the idea of wrapping around with your right hand than it is to figure out tension with your left. But if you have any friends who crochet, they might find starting with continental easier. I've heard this is often the case for crocheters, since it's more similar to how the yarns held for that craft. There are some die-hard continental knitting fans who will swear up and down it's faster, but that's not true for everyone, so don't feel pressured to use it. It sounds like you have more experience with english anyway.


sarahsuebob

I would agree with that - I learned to knit English, then I learned to crochet, and once I learned to crochet I switched to continental.


robinlovesrain

I had this exact same journey haha


twat69

Total noob here. Trying to learn based on the wiki https://www.reddit.com/r/knitting/wiki/index#wiki_i_want_to_learn_how_to_knit_.2F_how_do_i_get_started.3F After casting on, are you supposed to undo the slip knot or leave it? Why is the cast on row so much tighter to knit than the rows that come after it? What am I doing to add a stitch once in a while and how do I stop doing it?


catsdrivingcars

The first stitch when you turn your work can look like one or two stitches, depending on the orientation of the working yarn. Bring the yarn forward over the needle, it looks like two. Bring the yarn around the side, it looks like one. Just mess with it a bit and make sure that last stitch (which is the first stitch you're about to knit into) is not pretending to be two. Also when you're learning, count your stitches often so you know when you added or dropped any. It will help you find your mistakes.


sighcantthinkofaname

1. I treat it as a normal stitch, it ends up looking about the same. 2. It's all about how tight the yarn is wrapped. But it's normal for the cast on row to be tighter. Some people use a larger needle to cast on, or even hold two needles together for it. 3. [This](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NtKSfPOv6Y0) is my favorite video for beginner mistakes, I'm not sure where you're adding stitches but this video probably covers it.